Omega Speedmaster Buying Guide: Every Reference Explained

The Omega Speedmaster is the only watch that's been to the Moon. It's also one of the most confusing product lines in watchmaking — dozens of references, multiple movements, hesalite versus sapphire, manual versus automatic, Professional versus Reduced versus Racing versus... you get the idea.

This guide cuts through the noise. We'll cover every major Speedmaster reference worth considering, explain what separates them, and help you pick the one that actually makes sense for you.

The Speedmaster Universe: A Brief Map

Omega has produced hundreds of Speedmaster variants since 1957. They fall into several broad categories:

Moonwatch Professional — The direct descendant of the watch that went to the Moon. Manual-wound, usually 42mm. This is the Speedmaster.

Speedmaster Reduced — Smaller (39mm), automatic movement. Discontinued but available pre-owned. Not a "real" Moonwatch in purist terms.

Speedmaster Racing — Modern automatic chronographs with racing-inspired design. Different beast entirely.

Speedmaster '57 — Retro-styled pieces inspired by the original 1957 design.

Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon — Ceramic-cased variants in various colorways.

Limited Editions — Hundreds exist. Some are collectible, many are not.

For this guide, we'll focus primarily on the Moonwatch Professional line — what most people mean when they say "Speedmaster."

The Current Production Moonwatch (2021–Present)

In 2021, Omega completely redesigned the Speedmaster Moonwatch with the Caliber 3861. This is the current production reference:

310.30.42.50.01.001 — Hesalite on Bracelet

The classic choice. Hesalite crystal (acrylic) and steel case back, just like the original Moon watches.

• Movement: Caliber 3861 (manual-wind, co-axial, Master Chronometer)
• Case: 42mm steel
• Power Reserve: 50 hours
• Water Resistance: 50m
• Retail: $6,900
• Pre-owned: $5,200–$5,800

This is the spiritual successor to every Speedmaster that went to space. The hesalite crystal scratches easily but can be polished with Polywatch for pennies. The solid case back has the original "Flight Qualified by NASA" engraving.

310.30.42.50.01.002 — Sapphire Sandwich

The practical choice. Sapphire crystal front and back, exposing the decorated 3861 movement.

• Same specs as hesalite, but with sapphire crystals
• Retail: $7,500
• Pre-owned: $5,800–$6,500

The sapphire crystal is more scratch-resistant than hesalite, though not scratch-proof. The exhibition case back lets you see the movement — particularly nice given the finishing on the 3861.

Which Should You Choose?

Hesalite is traditional, historically accurate, and less expensive. Sapphire is practical and shows off the movement. Neither is "wrong." Most first-time buyers prefer the sapphire; purists often prefer hesalite.

Previous Generation: The 3861's Predecessor

311.30.42.30.01.005 — The "Pre-2021" Moonwatch

This was the standard Moonwatch from 2014 to 2021, powered by the Caliber 1861 (later 1861).

• Movement: Caliber 1861 (manual-wind, non-co-axial)
• Case: 42mm steel
• Power Reserve: 48 hours
• Pre-owned: $4,200–$5,200 (hesalite); $4,800–$5,800 (sapphire)

The 1861 is essentially unchanged from the caliber that went to the Moon in 1969. It's a workhorse movement, but lacks the modern co-axial escapement and Master Chronometer certification of the 3861.

Should You Buy Pre-2021?

If you want to save money or prefer the historical connection to the original caliber, yes. The 1861 is proven and serviceable, though parts will become harder to source as time passes.

If you want the latest technology, better accuracy, and improved power reserve, pay the premium for the 3861.

Vintage Speedmasters: The Grail Territory

Vintage Speedmasters are a world unto themselves. Prices range from $3,000 for project watches to $100,000+ for rare references. Here are the major waypoints:

145.012 / 145.022 — The Moon References

These are the references worn during the Apollo missions.

• 145.012: 1967–1969, Caliber 321 (hand-finished, column-wheel chronograph)
• 145.022: 1969–1988, Caliber 861 (cam-actuated, easier to service)

The 145.012 with Caliber 321 is the grail for collectors. Clean examples start around $15,000 and climb rapidly with provenance.

The 145.022-69 (first year of 861) is more accessible at $6,000–$10,000 depending on condition.

3590.50 — Transitional Reference

Produced from 1988 to 1997, bridging vintage and modern.

• Still uses Caliber 861 (later 1861)
• Crystal changed from hesalite to mineral to sapphire over the run
• Pre-owned: $3,500–$5,500

Excellent entry point to vintage Speedmaster ownership. Parts are available, service is straightforward.

105.012 — Pre-Moon

1964–1966 production, Caliber 321. One of the references tested by NASA that led to the Apollo selection. Prices start around $12,000 for honest examples.

What to Watch for in Vintage

Service dials: Original dials replaced during service with later-style dials. Reduces value significantly unless priced accordingly.

Refinished hands: Relumed or replaced hands are common. Compare lume color between dial and hands.

Case polishing: Heavy polishing reduces value. Look for sharp chamfers on the lug edges.

Movement swaps: Ensure the caliber matches the reference and era.

Franken-watches: Parts from multiple references combined into one. Particularly common with bezels.

Speedmaster Reduced: The "Junior" Moonwatch

3510.50 and 3539.50

From 1988 to 2009, Omega produced the Speedmaster Reduced — a smaller, automatic alternative to the Professional.

• Size: 39mm (compared to 42mm Professional)
• Movement: Caliber 3220 (based on ETA 2890-A2 + Dubois Dépraz chronograph module)
• Power Reserve: 46 hours
• Pre-owned: $2,200–$3,200

The Honest Assessment:

The Reduced is a fine watch and fits smaller wrists better than the Professional. However:

• It's not the "Moonwatch" — different movement, different heritage
• The modular movement is less robust than integrated chronograph calibers
• Service costs can be high due to module replacement
• Resale value is significantly lower than Professional models

Buy it if you love the size and price. Don't buy it thinking it's a budget Moonwatch — it's a different watch entirely.

Speedmaster Racing: The Automatic Alternative

If you want a modern Speedmaster with automatic winding, the Racing line delivers.

329.30.44.51.01.001 (Current)

• Movement: Caliber 9900 (automatic, co-axial, column-wheel chronograph)
• Case: 44.25mm steel
• Power Reserve: 60 hours
• Retail: $8,700
• Pre-owned: $5,500–$6,500

The 9900 is an excellent integrated automatic chronograph. Master Chronometer certified, robust, accurate.

The catch: it's large at 44.25mm and doesn't wear like a traditional Moonwatch. The design is sportier, less heritage-focused.

Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon

Ceramic-cased variants in black, grey, and various limited colors.

311.92.44.51.01.003 (Black Black)

• Movement: Caliber 9300 (earlier versions) or 9300 derivative
• Case: 44.25mm ceramic
• Pre-owned: $7,000–$9,000

Stealthy, modern, distinctive. The ceramic case is essentially scratch-proof but more brittle than steel.

Speedmaster '57

Retro-styled pieces inspired by the original 1957 reference.

332.10.41.51.01.001 (Current)

• Movement: Caliber 9906 (automatic, co-axial, Master Chronometer)
• Case: 40.5mm steel
• Retail: $8,600
• Pre-owned: $6,500–$7,500

The '57 captures vintage aesthetics with modern internals. The 40.5mm size is more versatile than the 44mm Racing. The "broad arrow" hands and aluminum bezel are beautifully executed.

Excellent choice if you want automatic movement and vintage vibes.

The Buying Decision: Which Speedmaster?

For First-Time Speedmaster Buyers

Buy the current Moonwatch Professional (310.30.42.50.01.001 or 002).

It's the definitive Speedmaster experience. Manual-wind requires engagement — you're winding the watch each morning, connecting with it. The 3861 is the best Moonwatch caliber ever made. And it holds value exceptionally well.

Sapphire vs. hesalite is personal preference. Sapphire is slightly more popular.

For Budget-Conscious Buyers

Buy a pre-2021 Moonwatch (311.30.42.30.01.005 or similar).

Same essential experience, $1,000+ savings. The 1861 caliber is historically correct and proven reliable. Supply is strong in the secondary market.

Pre-owned, expect to pay $4,200–$5,500 depending on condition and papers.

For Smaller Wrists

Buy a Speedmaster '57 (40.5mm) or vintage reference.

The 42mm Professional wears larger than its diameter suggests due to long lugs. If your wrist is under 7", consider the '57 or a vintage reference with shorter lug-to-lug.

For Those Who Don't Want to Wind

Buy the '57 or Racing.

If manual winding feels like a chore rather than a ritual, get an automatic. No shame in it. The '57 is the better choice for most; the Racing is for those who prefer modern sport aesthetics.

For Collectors

The Caliber 321 Ed White or vintage 145.012.

Omega reintroduced the Caliber 321 in the "Ed White" limited edition, now a permanent collection piece. It uses a painstakingly recreated 321 caliber and sells for around $14,200 retail (frequently above on secondary market).

For vintage, the 145.012 with original dial and case is the benchmark. Budget $15,000–$30,000+ depending on condition.

Fair Pricing: What to Pay

Use these ranges for pre-owned purchases in 2026:

Tools like Dealhound track specific Speedmaster references across multiple marketplaces, alerting you when prices drop below typical ranges. Particularly useful given the price variation between platforms.

Common Issues and Service

Chronograph not resetting to zero: Usually a cam or spring issue, relatively simple fix.

Mainspring slip: Loss of power reserve, needs mainspring replacement.

Pushers stiff or mushy: Gaskets may need replacement.

Running fast/slow: Regulation adjustment, sometimes full service needed.

Service costs: Expect $500–$800 from independents, $750–$1,000+ from Omega. Budget for service every 5–7 years.

Final Thoughts

The Speedmaster is the rare watch that's simultaneously a tool, an icon, and an accessible entry to serious watchmaking. The current 3861-powered Moonwatch is the best it's ever been. The vintage market offers genuine history on your wrist.

Know which reference speaks to you, understand the fair price, and buy from a reputable source. The Speedmaster will not disappoint.

Looking for a Speedmaster at the right price? Dealhound tracks pre-owned listings across major platforms and alerts you when your target reference drops into range.